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"Grey Pearl" 62-08 - Braun Jones and Tina C. Jones
Date: 2/26/08
Barefoot Cay, Roatan, Bay Islands, Honduras
A beautiful, deep-water, sheltered marina and bungalows, Barefoot Cay was just the ticket. Hal Wyman(‘Que Linda’), a Nordhavn Atlantic Rally alum has ownership interest in Barefoot Cay along with our hosts Milesse and John Kennedy. As luck would have it, Hal arrived a few days after we did..it was a pleasure to catch up with him.
Roatan is about 30 miles north of the mainland of Honduras. The islands were British colonies until the 1850s when they became a part of Honduras. Roatan, the largest of the Bay Islands, is about 30 miles long and 2 to 3 miles wide. There are numerous bays and fjords accessible through various cuts in the reef that surrounds the island… excellent diving and snorkeling. That just got Odenkirk in gear… fishing & diving!
Some highlights of Roatan: Barefoot Cay amenities: pool, excellent food, terrific staff - we highly recommend them – check them out at www.barefootcay.com; The funky-bohemian West End; Great & cheap seafood at Tony’s Pizzeria… pizza’s good, too!; Dolphin encounter (right, Sharon?); “Mary’s Place” dive spot…an amazing 150’ plus wall; Sharon’s birthday wish… “get me to terra firma!” Actually, we could have stayed awhile longer in Roatan. Nevertheless, we have sort of a schedule and needed to get back on track. Hard to believe we are bound for Alaska??
We bid farewell to John & Sharon – great memories! And, we welcomed a friend, Kell Achenbach, X-IBM buddy and X-Dexel partner of Braun’s on board. Kell is an accomplished sailor and has made several trips with Braun as the chief navigator… when they were sailing with sextants, years ago. All I gotta say – is thank heavens for GPS!
Back to Roatan for a moment, not too far away from private Barefoot Cay you quickly become
aware that you’re in Central America. Most of the people live in less than standard conditions most Americans enjoy. Nevertheless, the Honduran people seem to be happy, they were always friendly and are rather laid back… which reminds me of a recent phone conversation I had with my travel-savvy Mother. Her closing comment was, “Honey, try not to get kidnapped”… hmm, okey-dokey, Mom. Not to worry, her travel-savvy daughter typically has a plan when entering town – usually solo, game face is on, I am overly polite especially when asking the armed guard outside the Supermercado where I can buy bait (thanks, John)and when leaving I usually whisper, “Vaya con Dios” - Go with God or God be with you… which disarms them every time.
Bottom line – Que sera, sera.
On that note –
Be well and
Vaya con Dios
Saludos,
Tina & Braun
Currently underway bound for Isla Providenicia, Colombia
Date: 2/22/08
Time: 1800 local 0000 GMT
Position: 15 49.4N 088 41.6W Rio Dulce River, Guatemala (Hint: you can key in the latitude and longitude coordinates to Google Earth and see exactly where the Pearl was.)
Status: departed West Snake Cay, Belize 0615 2/22/8, arrived Livingston, Guatemala 1630 2/22/8
We carefully timed our departure from Snake Cay to arrive at high tide at the entrance to the Rio Dulce (sweet river), Guatemala. This entrance is guarded by a one mile wide sand bar – the infamous Livingston Bar, created and continually maintained by the fetch from the Caribbean Sea piling up sand precisely at the mouth of the river. Nature’s way of warning those that dare to enter the river and attempt inland travel. The bar has 5-6 feet of water unless there is a moon high tide and it is late afternoon when a little more water gets blown into the river’s mouth… then the bar carries maybe 7 feet. The Pearl draws 6 ½ feet. Soooo you can see where we got this idea to arrive at high tide to attempt to cross the bar. In we went paying strict attention to the crystal clear sailing instructions - line up the house on the hill with the outermost rock next to the coconut palm, near the white sand beach and “sniff” your way across the bar. We also were following a panga (river canoe) carrying two natives - our hired bar guides. We think one guide reasoned that we would base his tip on how wildly he gestured in directing us where to go. But his histrionics were futile, it was impossible to comprehend him so we did our best to follow the panga and after a few bumps and with the depth gauge reading 4 inches under the keel we anchored off Livingston to complete entrance formalities. These involved the hiring of an agent, four officials boarding the boat (customs, immigration, agriculture and Mr. “Couldn’t Understand”). Four hours later the captain went to the agent’s office in town to pick up the final paperwork, and oh, a small matter… pay $180US, which covered everyone’s monthly salary, and a big party later that night.
Mechanical: No issues.
Crew: John and Sharon Odenkirk, TJ, BJ
Comments:
On the trip through town to retrieve the ships papers the captain noticed the absence of any police. Later we learned they were all kidnapped on this day we were clearing into Livingston, Guatemala. See AP news article below:
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Nothing like a little social uprising to get a flavor for an area… After clearing in we proceeded 18 miles up the Rio Dulce gorge and river. The deep river gorge offers dramatic 300 foot vertical limestone cliffs laden with tropical foliage. Attractive thatched huts dotted the water’s edge. Natives in the Cayucos(dugout canoes) would wave as we passed by.
Additional highlights of Rio Dulce: The canopy jungle tour – as one would expect – lush & tropical stretches over suspended canopy bridges over 60’ high; Saturday market in town – sights and smells…everyone was out!; Agua Calientes waterfall - a cool and refreshing pool of water with hot(106 degree temperature) spring falls that have a therapeutic effect when standing beneath it; $25 per night slip fees; $7 for a bottle of very good Chilean Sauvignon Blanc; oh yea, coconut rolls and fresh snook…
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BRAUN’S VERSION OF THE TRIP UP THE RIO DULCE RIVER:
after reading this in the cruising guide:
“Ask in Livingston if banditos are active in the Gorge. Rarely, but sometimes, robbers in pangas hide out in the Gorge under overhanging foliage or up tiny streams, lying in wait for unsuspecting yachts or dinghies coming around blind turns in the river. Time your trip to get through the Gorge and El Golfete before dust, and stay alert to all traffic. Travel with other boats if possible.”
So we departed alone up the river reasoning the robbers would not be active this day because they were busy in town kidnapping the police. The trip up the jungle river was fantastic – Heart of Darkness, Apocalypse Now.
Mooring on the jungle river was a bit unnerving, spooky sounds at night, several sounding like clinking machetes and a panga creeping up to the side of the Pearl.
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We left the jungle with only some bug bites – no worries, all are quaffing malaria pills. As we made our way down the river back to the Caribbean we convinced the intrepid Sharon and John to extend their stay on the Pearl… next stop – a bumpy overnight run to Roatan, Honduras.
Date: 2/20/08
Time: 1815 local 0015 GMT
Position: 16 11.4N 088 34.8W
Status: Depart Belize City 2/20/8 0845 arrived West ~Snake Cay~, Belize
2/20/8 1815
Sky: CU, S Visibility: good
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Since last report: All day we ran down the inside of the Belize barrier reef
to arrive at a small idyllic cay with requisite palms and a white sand
beach. Anchored at dark in its lee. Much talk among the women as to why this
is called 'Snake Cay' - and a question to the captain yielded the answer,
'don't know/don't worry'. which the captain thought had inspired confidence
and dismissed the matter, but later noticed the crew performing a triple
check of all hatches and doors to be certain they were securely battened
down for the night.
Surrounding reefs looked fertile for a seafood harvest and planned a scuba
hunt with spears (Hawaiian slings) for tomorrow.
Mechanical: GP water maker still leaking slightly but no worries.
Crew: John and Sharon Odenkirk, TJ, BJ
Comments: Reef surrounding the island was productive. 4 lobster, a red
snapper, porgy, and hog fish were brought on board. Terrific super fresh
seafood medley dinner, with several bottles of white burgundy from the
ship's medicine chest.
Signed /Capt'n Braun
m/y Grey Pearl
Anchored off ~Snake Cay~, Belize
Date: 2/19/08
Time: 1400 local 2000 GMT
Position: 17 29.5N 088 10.8W Belize City (Hint: you can key in the
latitude and longitude coordinates to Google Earth and see exactly where the Pearl is.)
Status: departed Ambergris Cay 2/19 0800, arrived Belize City 2/19 1400
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Since last Log: Put into Belize City, not a desirable destination, but
necessary to fix water maker. Terrible dockage at a down town rundown marina
- large swell is made up by fetching across the entire bay then broadsides
the Pearl into the pilings, raising and lowering her 1-2 feet with each wave
- squeaking and bashing all night long.
Mechanical: Repaired water maker which failed while making water in San
Pedro and would not restart showing no signs of power. Traced fault to main
control panel and found a blackened corner on the printed circuit board, not
the way Intel would have made it. Replaced board with new one from spares
and unit ran - always gratifying to fix something but particularly in this
case because water is a good thing to have. Also essential to have a full
complement of spare parts when away from USA (e.g. circuit board).
Crew: John and Sharon Odenkirk, TJ, BJ
Comments: Belize City very third world with lots of crime. Guide books are
very explicit - do NOT go out at night. So after a few courage cocktails on
board by which time it was night, we went out to dinner walking beyond the
marina compound in the dark with our hands in our pockets clutching boat
knives. Had a good fish dinner and hustled back to the Pearl, one man
walking backwards to keep a sharp 360 degree eye, Seal Team style.
Signed /Capt'n Braun
m/y Grey Pearl
Moored Belize City
Date: 2/14/08
Time: 1200 local 1800 GMT
Position: 17 54.6N 087 57.7W
Status: departed Isla Mujeres, Mexico 2/13 0800, arrived San Pedro Ambergris
Island, Belize 2/14 1200
Course: 197T Speed: avg 8.19
RPM: avg 1710
DMG from: Isla Mujeres 219.9 km DTG to: ETA :
Hours underway: 26hr 52min
Fuel consumed gal: 246 GPH: avg 9.16 Fuel remaining : 1909 Water remaining
gal: 400
Wind: 16 E Sea: 5-7 Barometer: 1019 steady Air Temp: 83 Water Temp: 80
Sky: CU, S Visibility: good
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Since last report: After 3 nights in Isla Mujeres, departed for Ambergris Cay a small island just off the coast of Belize. This place was named for ambergris which is an oily substance secreted by sperm whales that coated the surface of the water around the island before the people of Nantucket came and took the whales away. This is one of those rare places that modernity has not yet infringed on. Everyone including lots of American expats is very laid back, beach bummy and gets around on foot, bicycle or golf carts. Lotsa layin around in the sun and extended cocktail hours. Surprisingly the food is terrific, particularly the seafood.
Mechanical: GP water maker leaking slightly, but operating and made 450 gallons - essential to do when traveling in Central America - not advisable to take on shore water and turn the ships tanks into a hatchery for all types of intestinal bacteria.
Crew: John and Sue Spencer, TJ, BJ
Comments: inside the reef is very shallow and despite the locals assurances that there is "plenty mon" of water we went aground in soft mud and sand. The island Ferry with 2x250 Yahamas couldn't pull us off so hired a small tug and no problema, off in a jiffy (after waiting for the tide change.)
Signed /Capt'n Braun m/y
Grey Pearl Moored at the "Belize Yacht Club"??
San Pedro, Ambergris Cay Belize
Grey Pearl rides again!
Ahoy ye landlubbers –
Once again, Captain Braun and his trusty mate(of course, that ‘d be moi) are aboard the good ship ‘Grey Pearl’ bound for adventure on the high seas…destination – Panama Canal.
After a wonderful visit with Braun’s father, Commander Bill and his lovely wife, Noelia and her family over Super Bowl weekend we set off from Jupiter FL To Key West, FL with crewmates and fellow Nordhavn Atlantic Rally alum, Sue & John Spencer (N40 ‘Uno Mas’) on board. In route, we passed dozens of sport fish boats…but, caught no fish.
We laid over in Key West for a few days where clearly drinking IS considered a sport…geez. Bars upon bars and tacky t-shirt shops…bit of a turn off.
We had an excellent weather window for our two overnight passage through the Straits of Florida, passing very closely to Cuba in route to the Mexican island of Isla Mujeres. It seemed we saw nothing but cruise ship after cruise ship. Caught no fish. Pulled the ribs out of the freezer…
Isla Mujeres is beautiful and quaint, far less glitzy than its neighboring sisters, Cancun and Cozumel which suited us just fine. We hired an agent for port clearance/immigration to avoid the paperwork cha-cha that we’ve heard so much about in Mexico and Central America. Fortunately, we had been warned by cruisers before us and I was able to hide my meat, dairy and produce – which the Mexican Agricultural authorities have been know to confiscate for reasons that my “food could contaminate the Mexican people”…POR FAVOR!! Sue & I would juggle the food back in forth in bags with ice packs from closets and drawers each time we thought the “authorities” were due to come to the boat…John was so right… an hour would stretch into 2 or 3 or in the end they would arrive manana. After all…other than a few bruised tomatoes, I got to keep my USDA goods J The Isla Mujeres Yacht Club & Marina where we were berthed was very nice. We thoroughly enjoyed their pool and restaurant. So it seems that Isla Mujeres is a popular base for sportfisherman. They filled the docks. There is no telling what their daily catch will be, bonito, dolphin, wahoo, kingfish, snapper, etc…did I mention that we didn’t catch any fish?
We rented a golf cart and perused the island. The food was delicious and cheap – ceviche, fish tacos, tostones, guacamole and chips, etc…We made a habit to bring our ice with us! Especially after the first evening of warm margaritas and cuba libres…ick.
We cleared out of Mexico and set off for Ambergris Cay, San Pedro Harbor, Belize…”La Isla Bonita”
Belize is the mecca for scuba diving…claiming the world’s second-longest barrier reef. Offering a fascinating contrast to the marine world is the extensive Mayan ruins that lie scattered throughout Belize. Mayan civilization dominated Belize for some 3,500 years before the arrival of the Spanish Conquistadors in the 16th century. The ruins sound very interesting…but, honestly, we sorta tapped out on ruins (memorable) from our Med and Eastern Med adventure.
Presently, were anchored off San Pedro in very shallow water (13’ – we draw 6.5’). Our big belly girl prefers deeper waters but, we took a chance and entered the 100 yard wide cut in the reef on a calm morning several days ago. The town of San Pedro is enchanting. The long beachfront is filled with dozens of docks with dive boats rigged and ready to go out. The people are very friendly. Several good restaurants and bars located right on the beach. And, you gotta love the way they phrase things…The Tackle Box was advertising live music from “9pm til Late”.
We’re now waiting for the wind to lie down so that we can exit through the cut and, as I look over my shoulder out, due to raging sea conditions, we will not attempt to make the cut …so to speak.
A few days ago, we bid farewell to Sue & John Spencer – they were such a BIG help and offered terrific company & experience…and, we welcome friends, Sharon & John Odenkirk from No.VA on board. They plan to cruise with us to Rio Dulce, Guatemala (Jungle cruising!) and Roatan, Honduras.
As I write, Braun & John are off fishing…but, just popped back by the boat to get more lures (??) and with tales of “fish to be had”; Sharon is lying poolside at The Belize Yacht Club and I have some precious time to myself.
Did I mention that John is a marine biologist and works for the Department of Fishery for the State of Virginia?
Think I’ll leave the chicken in the freezer…J
Hoping all is well in your world –
Que te vaya bien!
Tina & Braun
p.s. NEWS FLASH – The boys came back with a couple snapper and mackerel! We’re off at sea and headed for Guatemala…
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