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"Salty Dawg " - Nordhavn 55
Owners: David and Lowie Bock
JULY 2007
July 30, 2007
The Med
Submitted by David
Wifi gives me no hook up to Hotmail or AOL and very slow internet surfing today—ah—it’s Spain and that’s the way it is. To compensate the weather today is much like it has been every day since we got here—blinding sun with clear blue sky and humidity so low that one must constantly sip water to moisten your throat and keep hydrated. This is very much a desert environment and we are told that when it does rain during the winter months it is still not much and infrequent.
So yesterday I did some solo shopping for a scooter and after an evening of web surfing settled on the Honda Forza X 250 with characteristics similar to our recently sold Honda. I visited an office run by a British lady who provides insurance, internet services, real estate services, travel services and foreign language lessons and about any other services that a non local might want. I asked her for the particulars to get insurance and she did a little research for me. The steps are 1st to get a letter from the marina or Capitano de Puerto stating that we are full time live aboards on a boat in the marina. Coincidently, I prepaid my slip or mooring fee thru June 1, 2008 with a generous discount including the 16% I.V.A. tax plus utilities which are billed separately and vary according to high or low season and less when if we leave the boat for a while. Lowie took this document to the Officina Municipal where after an hour of phone calls and asking the next in command she was issued a Certificado de Empadronamiento—a certificate of residence. Back to Sue—our British service guide and I was advised that I must now present myself in the Province Capital at the Administracion General del Estado along with 2 completed applications, 2 copies of our passports, and Presupuesto-a price quote from the Moto Shop-to apply for a N.I.E. (Numero de Identidad de Exptranjero)—a National Identification number for foreigners. I will submit all this tomorrow and then wait 2 weeks and return to the office to get the number. Then I must temporarily surrender my Florida driver’s license and submit an application for a Spanish driver’s license—this will take about 6 weeks and cost about 100 Euros for the services. It’s Spain and there is a lot of paperwork and things take time to happen—but that’s OK—we are working our way thru the system and learning so much each day.
We returned to the boat mid afternoon where I made dinner and we settled in for our siesta. It’s now 8:00 PM, still sunny and we are going out for a bike ride along beach—another day in paradise--doodles
July 27, 2007
The Med
Submitted by Lowie
Life here in Spain
Dennis and Esther left the boat today. They are in the process of flying back to the USA. We wish them a great journey and thank them for sharing ours. They are both terrific crew with tons of practical knowledge.
We will either stay where we are now, or cruise so more. We really need at least one other person with experience aboard. While I learned a lot in the Atlantic crossing there are types of help that David needs which I can not do. This Salty Dawg is way more complex than the previous (which David and I were comfy operating together).
Anyway, David just walked on and said that our Spanish lessons start late next week…. We are having a ball with Spanish! I use a combo of broken Eng/French/Spanish and plenty of pantomime. The people are so nice that they work with you to help. But we want to learn the language.
The Spanish late lifestyle suits me well; actually David likes it too. We are eating dinner around 10:00 like the locals. At 9:00 PM we are bike riding it is still light here. The siesta is real and alive. Almost everything closes but restaurants and cafes. The whiteness of the sun is like the Rocky Mts. Blinding almost. We had shades made for he boat windows and I never used them in FL—here they are essential.
The cruisers are friendly and very helpful. That is what makes a boating community so different from anything land based. At least, any land I have ever lived on!
Please write I will answer when the wi-fi is working well! By the way, we found a lovely tennis club but could not communicate our needs. Will try again manana! Much love.
July 30, 2007
The Med
Submitted by Esther
Friday, July 20
Yesterday afternoon, the winds increased to a steady 25 knots and we were happy that we were in a marina.
OK you would think that since we were secure, moored in a marina a good night’s sleep would be easy. Welcome to Thursday night in a Spanish tourist town. Dining starts at 9:00 PM, the bands start at 10 and play until 2:00. It is very festive. The steady wind created a low whistling/humming sound as it blew past the masts of hundreds of sailboats moored in the marina. . Surprisingly, there was little noise from flopping halyards. Happily, I enjoy a good book until sleep drowned out the bands.
We all awoke somewhat rested and anxious to get on with our land based projects.
David and Lowie had made arrangements to rent a car and travel to a few marinas further north, up the coast of Spain looking for a place to spend the winter. They packed and left late morning.
Dennis and I had plenty of projects to keep us busy. The first was to wash the salt and sea scum off the boat. This is a task we divide into two days as there are a lot of surfaces on Salty Dawg that require a lot of scrubbing and a lot of drying.
Next project for Dennis was to design a mechanism to raise and lower the passerelle (for non-yachty types, read “Gangplank”). Yesterday, a man from a nearby boat came over to offer his help. Lucky for us, he spoke pretty good English. He told us he was German but spent summers here. Dennis went to his boat to study his design before walking around the marina to observe other designs. Dennis decided that his was indeed the best design and made note of items needed to complete the project.
After lunch and a break, Dennis went to buy the items for the passerelle and I headed to the Dock Master’s office to get help connecting to the marina WiFi.
Yet again David and I had been stumped by the process. However, the marina people were very helpful and this computer connected. Yeah!
Dennis was successful in purchasing all parts needed, but opted to put the project off until Saturday. One has to pace themselves, after all.
We had a quiet dinner at “home” alone. We hoped David and Lowie were enjoying their time away. Danny was feeling abandoned. We know because usually at meal time, she comes and sits at the end of the galley, regardless of who is cooking. She doesn’t bark or beg. She just watches and knows she will get a nibble. However, she didn’t show up at lunch time and she didn’t show up at dinner, a sure sign of depression. And they say dogs don’t show emotions.
Saturday, July 21
Dennis assumed his land based habit of an early morning walk, while I read and enjoyed my solitude. Later I would take Danny for her morning walk.
After breakfast Dennis and I finished the wash down of Salty Dawg, well almost finished. Dennis suggested that we not finish the cockpit area until the passerelle project was complete, which he planned to do in the afternoon.
Now you may be wondering about all the fuss over a passerelle. Consider that there is tide (18”), swells and winds that keep the boat in constant motion, not much, but motion, none the less. One end of the passerelle is attached to the boat and the other end while extended to the dock, can not be left resting on the dock or the end would quickly be worn away with the constant friction. The ideal is to have the passerelle supported so that it remains about 8 inches off the dock, but easily lowers to the dock when stepped on.
This is accomplished with the use of pulleys, cam cleats, bungee straps and a lot of rope. Dennis did a great job. It looks professional, neat, works easily, and is very functional. Even Danny confidently walks off and on the passerelle.
While Dennis was busy with this, I worked at cleaning the interior of its accumulated sea scum. After a break, we walked to the market and purchased items to make a scrumptious chef salad.
Sunday, July 22
It was another fine morning on the Med. Since we landed in Gibraltar on July 10th, the weather has been the same everyday, perfect!
The project list is shrinking. Dennis cleaned the cockpit which is really more than cleaning because it is like “the back porch”. Every thing accumulates there. So he organized, stowed and even put the fishing lures away. Lowie will be some impressed when she returns. Dennis keeps telling her Salty Dawg is a “Just a fishing boat”, but she thinks it’s her home.
I finished with the interior. We had lunch and a reading break before hopping on the bikes for an afternoon ride. Beaches stretch for two miles from both sides of the marina. There are tiled paths the whole way, as well as an adjacent two lane road. We had a very pleasant ride and spent the remainder of the day reading and relaxing.
I look at an atlas, and think how awesome it is be here on Spain’s southeast coast. It is mostly newly developed, with resorts replacing small fishing villages. The developments extend for hundreds of miles. But miles of undeveloped beaches still remain.
David and Lowie returned home about 10:30 PM. Danny was so excited to see them and wanted to show off her new trick of getting on and off the passerelle. And needing to stretch after much driving the 3 went for a walk.
Later, David shared the tales of their 3 day adventure.
Monday, July 23
The Bock’s have, in my mind, already made the adjustment to the Spanish life style.
That is, get up late, siesta, stay up late at night. But for most folks it is not as big an adjustment as it would be for Dennis and me. We tend to live our lives at the other end of the day. Getting up early and going to bed early. To each his own. And as I often tell Dennis, life would be just too dull if we were all alike.
Anyhow, after Dennis’ and my usual morning routine, we finished our project list; polishing chrome and washing windows. With that done we declared the rest of the day free. I read and relaxed and Dennis walked and biked around the area.
David declared a crew meeting, at which we collectively decided to stay here a few days before cruising to the Balearic Islands. After some time there, we would cruise to the marina where David and Lowie plan to spend the winter. After settling them in Dennis and I would return to the states.
Later, David and I went to the SuperMarket about 5 miles out of town. It is a cross between WalMart and Costco, if you can imagine that without a whole lot more detail. It was fun to see the differences and the similarities of stores in the USA. We picked up a few items but mainly scouted the place provisioning for the Balearic Islands.
Lowie had stayed home to prepare for us our favorite dinner of spaghetti and hot sausage. It was excellent!!! It was not long before Dennis and I headed to bed.
David, Lowie and Danny took their evening stroll down the “beach board walk”.
Well, it is not really a board walk but a “promenade”. It is 20’ wide, tiled (pavers) with lamp posts down the middle, and follows the beach for miles. The views are beautiful and the breezes lovely. In many sections there is a third lane for bikes.
The weather here is very consistent and practically perfect. I can understand why so many people choose to vacation here.
Tuesday, July 24
Dennis’ and my goal had been to cross the Atlantic and get Salty Dawg to new cruising waters. With that done, and after much soul searching and agonizing, I decided to follow my heart. After breakfast I announced to Dennis, David and Lowie, that I was homesick and really wanted to go home. David and Lowie are dear people, and this has been a great adventure, but I am used to spending a lot of time by myself, (At home Dennis teaches tennis mornings, uses the gym and plays tennis afternoons) and I am longing for my own space, my own home and my own bed. Every one understood which made me happy.
David and Lowie will have no problem cruising Salty Dawg to their chosen winter marina.
Until then we will enjoy this lovely corner of the world and our time with David, Lowie and Dannie. This includes long walks on the beaches, exploring the shops, reading great books, relaxing and eating.
While cruising is a very romantic way to see the world it requires a lot of preparation, daily maintenance of systems, attention to detail, and is at times intense. We are just beginning to truly relax and enjoy our surroundings.
I made fajitas and Spanish rice for dinner. We all ate too much!!!
Wednesday July 25
Another beautiful day. I took a walk on the beach, had a long nap, and enjoyed a good book, all in perfect weather. David went to the store and came home with a couple kinds of bread and some olives. So for dinner we grazed on: olives, tomatoes, cheese, bread dipped in olive oil and herbs, watermelon, and a “Southwestern Bean Salad” that I made for lunch. We declared it a wonderful meal!
Thursday July 26
We are doing more of the same things we did yesterday. The new diversion was a small jigsaw puzzle. Since David and Lowie are adapting to the local way of life and didn’t want to eat until later, Dennis and I opted to go out. There are very few places that start serving early, but we found an English, fish and chips restaurant that was excellent.
Friday, July 27, Saturday, July 28, Sunday, July 29
I could write ditto, under each day. One day being a repeat of the previous, except for dinners, which is our primary activity of the late afternoon and early evening. And since we have 3 great cooks there is a lot of variety and experimenting.
So since the weather is consistent, our past times repetitious, and our projects list complete I will simply tell you what our evening meal was.
Friday, David and Lowie prepared one of their awesome stir fry dinners. Lowie did the chopping, cutting and preparing of the veggies and David did the woking and seasoning. It was excellent.
Saturday, Esther prepared pork tenderloin served over a bed of sautéed onion, red cabbage and apple. Lowie prepared a mozzarella cheese, tomato and onion salad.
Fresh “store bought” bread with season olive oil dipping sauce completed the meal.
Sunday, David prepared some of the Tuna Steaks that were caught on the Atlantic Passage. Salad and mashed potatoes completed this delicious meal.
With our time winding down here in the Med (we fly July 31), I thank you for being an interested reader. Your comments encouraged me to keep up the daily journal, even if it didn’t always get posted timely. I will now have it to jog my memory in years to come.
It took us about 30 days of cruising from Florida to Spain. It will take about 8 hours of flying to return. What an amazing world we live in. What an awesome opportunity David and Lowie gave us. We wish them fair winds and smooth seas for the rest of their voyage.
Esther
July 30, 2007
The Med
Submitted by David
We have found a delightful marina in a new resort setting that we are ecstatic about. The whole coast along the Med is explosive with new vacation and resort development—most tightly packed high rises. The area we are in seems to have some sort of planned development with lots of grass lined brick paved walkways around the town and particularly along the beach. The marina is rimmed with lots of small shops and dozens and dozens of restaurants and bars. There is a Mercado—much like an upscale supermarket in the US with extensive selections of seafood and fresh vegetables. In nearby towns there are shopping centers with an anchor store called a hypermercado that is like a Super Walmart but with far superior varieties and qualities of food. The dry good are similar but generally more expensive than in the US.
The area just inland of the resort development is covered with white plastic shade grown fruit and vegetable farms—much like the shade grown tobacco fields that used to fill the Connecticut River valley. The farmlands are extensive and extend into the base of the hills and for 100’s of miles along the coast. These supply most of Europe. The selections in the markets are so fresh and reasonably priced. In our immediate area the fields are not yet in production for the season—probably too dry and hot. The farm workers are come over from Morocco on the North African coast.
Lowie and I just returned from a bicycle ride up and down the beach and then took Dannie out for an ice cream—no problem—dogs are allowed at the outside tables. Families were just coming off the beach at 8:30 to 9:00. Sunset is after 9:30 and the restaurants are just getting into gear—every imaginable type of food from tapas to pizza to fish and chip—casual to elegant dining. Beer, soda, water and wine cost about the same. Most people seem to eat rather lightly in the evening with a main meal early afternoon.
All the commercial places except the mercados shut down for siesta from 2 to 5—then reopen until 8. Life is definitely on the slow side here and we including Dannie are adjusting to the lifestyle with ease.
I sold my scooter before leaving Florida and really miss it here. We have been shopping in scooter/moto shops and are really getting into communicating in Spanglish. There are lots of people riding scooters—mostly very low power and small. I was spoiled by our big Honda. I need to establish some documentation of residency in the marina to apply for license plates.
We have signed up for Spanish lessons. I carry an English/Spanish dictionary with me and Lowie carries a phrase book—we are getting by quite well. So many things are similar and yet different. There are very few traffic lights but lots of round about intersection and the traffic just flows. We’ve only seen 1 fender bender—amazing considering the speed and congestion of the traffic. Most of the cars are small. We have rented a 4 door Fiat with a 5 speed diesel engine—fuel is a little less than 1 Euro (about US $1.37) per liter and I think that I am getting better than 50 mpg.
Internet is by wifi but not consistently dependable—I paid 20 Euro for the first week but will sign with another provider for E 25/month from now on.
I don’t remember the last time we saw rain—maybe a little in Gibraltar. Here there is literally no rain until late September and then it gets cooler and can rain quite heavy at times. Mostly we awake with some haze that burns off and the sky is bright blue with intense sunshine—blinding like being out in the snow, very dry and sometimes very windy. The wind here blow from either the east or the west and can really kick up the water.
Docking boats is different than in the US. Dockage space is at a premium and all boats are either bow in or stern to the docks with 2 lines anchored in the water holding you off and 2 lines to the dock—tight as a guitar string. There are no finger piers. We have rigged a boarding ladder off the back and after a little practice it is a workable situation. There is minimal tidal change in the Med.
We drove up the coast looking for other possibilities for wintering marinas and are very pleased with this area. We have spent a bit of time in a few larger cities and this more rural setting is for us. There is an overwhelming feeling of safety and most everyone (except a few inpatient drivers) are courteous, polite and as helpful as possible with the language barrier. Many parts of the cities are very old with narrow one way streets and alley ways. It is definitely challenging to drive around in the cities.
Many of the shops around the marina—particularly those related to boating are owned by Brits and they are most helpful in getting information or facilitating our needs. We are told that during the winter season there is an active cruiser community of English speaking people. There is a tennis club about 5 miles away that Lowie will check out. Lots of dog friendly people. Our dock is concrete and about 15 feet wide with a locked get at the road end so Dannie gets a good workout running from end to end.
July 24, 2007
The Med
Submitted by Lowie
Connectile Dysfunction
If you have written me and I have not answered—it the fault of Spanish wi-fi! We are in a lovely place—but I am able to see my e mails and then I lose the connection. I know I have letters from: Mary, Phyllie, Arlsie and more! I am so frustrated so bear with the tech glitch.
We are in Spain on the Med. The sun is very bright and white. The humidity is non-existent. I am sitting looking on arid mountains in one direction and the Med the other way. It is awesome.
The research and reading that I did on the voyage across paid off. We cruised into this harbor and felt like home. Hard to explain to non-cruisers but it is true! David and I then rented a car and went by land to see my other choice places. It only confirmed our decision.
We loved our car tour. No reservations. Had a ball. We will tour land even more extensively in the winter when the tourista leave! Dennis and Esther babysat the Dannie dawg and the boat. They also made the boat sparkly clean when we returned to the boat. What a crew.
We hoped to tour the Baleric islands AFTER we found our winter marina. This is up in the air at the moment. Dennis and Esther are ready to head back to FL. It has been a very long, trying journey and they are missing home. For me, I am like a turtle—wherever the boat is I am home. I totally understand their decision. If we find any qualified folks we might still go this summer. Otherwise, we will land tour. The boat is still too demanding for just the two of us!
We plan to take Spanish lessons this winter. The place is loaded with Brits but as soon as you leave the coast the Spanish is welcome. The road signs are pretty easy to understand with Latin roots. At the moment the only thing missing is a tennis facility….you can be sure I will research it. Bike riding on a promenade along the beach is pretty terrific though. The Spanish economy reminds me of the USA of my youth---BOOMING!
Please continue to write. I will answer when the wi-fi permits it! Much love.
July 16-19, 2007
The Med
Sumbitted by Esther
Monday, July 16 about 2:30 we official entered the Mediterranean Sea although there was no billboard saying “Welcome to the Med”. The tour guides in Gibraltar, when at an overlook near the top of “the Rock” said the Atlantic is to the West and the Mediterranean is to the East. So we declared that once we left Gibraltar Bay we were in the Mediterranean; the beautiful Mediterranean, stretching 2000 + miles to the East.
To the South is Africa, only about 20 miles from Gibraltar. The coast of Spain turns northward and the coast of Africa turns southward until the distance across water is about 100 miles. Take time to turn to your atlas and check it out. We headed northeast following the coast.
The water is still the beautiful blue of deep oceans as in the Atlantic or Pacific. A few Dolphins, the small ones, welcomed us and sent us on our way.
The winds were light and the coastal mountains incredible. Being from Vermont, I expect all mountains to be green. However, these are not, yet they are truly spectacular.
After about 20 miles Salty Dawg slowed and we anchored outside the man-made breakwater which protects a marina. There was a lot of small boat traffic. All “over loaded” by our Coast Guards standards. Each vessel regardless of size was “dressed” with colorful flags as well as a huge Spanish Flag. Every one was merry and waved as they passed by both fore and aft of Salty Dawg. We returned all waves and occasionally blew the horn. Many of the boats went about a mile or two from us and anchored in shallow water facing a beach. We thought we were getting ready for fireworks and thought this was a grand finish to our first day. We waited anxiously for it to get dark, which doesn’t happen until about 10:30. There were about 4 launched flares that we thought was the warm up test. Not! That was it! The boats returned to the marina. Needless to say, we turned on all exterior lights on Salty Dawg as they people had been partying. In retrospect, we think there might have been a concert. We could hear no music, but with the direction of the wind, it was possible. We’ll never know!
I’d like to say it was a wonderful first night, but being the first time anchored in a year, it was noisy. The waves slapped at the hull. Items that had not been stowed properly, rolled, first one direction, then the opposite.
Being the light sleeper aboard, I hear more than the other 3 crew. However, about 3:00 the wind died, the waves diminished and I finally fell into a peaceful sleep.
Tuesday, July 17
After a leisurely morning, the anchor was hauled and Salty Dawg headed east north east cruising the coast of Spain. It was another gorgeous day for cruising. David and Lowie spent the whole day in the fly bridge and enjoyed every minute of it. Dennis had fishing lines launched but with no success. I read and napped making up for a short night. With the 4 “picture” windows in the salon, the views are spectacular while seating in comfort.
It was a fairly long day of 60 miles, and again we anchored just outside the breakwater (suggested anchorages) of a marina in front of a beach. The coast line of this section of Spain has no natural inlets, bays or harbors.
When the anchor was set, and the engines off, Lowie suggested we all go for a swim. Why no one thought of this the previous night is beyond all of us. It was a great idea and we all enjoyed the exercise. The water seemed a bit chilly at first but we adjusted quickly. Burgers on the grill capped the evening.
There is little protection in these anchorages. However, the winds were light and we were told the breezes would turn at night and come from the shore. Well it didn’t happen, and we rolled with the swells. For me, it was another sleepless night. The others admitted that they, too, had difficulty sleeping. However, naps underway in fairly flat seas are luscious.
Wednesday, July 18
Every one was in slow motion this morning but we wanted to put another 60 miles under the keel. It was another perfect cruising day with a change in the scenery. The mountains receded away from the coast and the hills had been terraced. Miles and miles and miles of plastic film greenhouses produce vegetables. It is an awesome sight and one that a camera can not capture.
Again we anchored in a very similar setting. Swimming was enjoyed by all before another grilled dinner. With no wind and minimal swells, we all had a great nights sleep.
Thursday July 19
Even though we all slept well, there was no need to haul anchor early. Our destination was a marina 10 miles up the coast. We have been given a lot of advice from the Nordhavn owners who had made this trip in 2004. There suggestion was to go into a marina in the morning, just after other boats have left. Do not call for a reservation as we will be told they have no spaces. This worked perfectly.
The next challenge was to “Med Moor”, a first for Salty Dawg. While new to us, it is the norm here. It involves, backing into an assigned spot, usually between two boats and tossing 2 stern lines to shore. These are put over 2 bollards. The attendant then hands to one of the crew a light heaving line with the “slime line” attached. This ½” slime line is walked to the bow. The slime line is spliced to two 1” lines. These are separated and pulled in through a hawse hole on each side of the bow, tightened, and cleated down. Theses lines are attached to a sunken mooring ball many yards in front of the boat; essential an anchor. The boat is now secured at 3 points. The lines are adjusted until the stern is about 6 or 7 feet from the quay (long dock). The boats are beam to beam, with several fenders for cushioning.
The next challenge was to install the passerelle (plank) from the stern of Salty Dawg to the dock which is 6’ from the stern. Much of this had been designed in Florida before the benefit of information from our Nordhavn cruisers, and without benefit of an opportunity to try it out. However, David and Dennis made it work well enough to get off the boat. More about this later.
David took the ships papers, reported to the Dock Master and secured our slip for a few days. Lowie took an excited Danny for a walk. Dennis and I adjusted fenders, lines and stowed what was not needed. Bikes were brought out of storage and assembled.
David and Lowie decided to go out for Chinese Buffet. As the dining doesn’t start until after our bed time, Dennis and I opted for an earlier supper at a street café.
It is good to be on land.
July 11-16, 2007
The Med
Sumbitted by Esther
Wednesday, July 11
I awoke at 6:00 AM with a mission to get our computer connected to the internet.
As I was drifting off to sleep last night I could hear Dennis’ frustrated attempts at the system and knew it had failed by the way he slumped into bed. Another case of “connectile dysfunction”: A disease that separates us from the rest of the world, or so it seems.
The signal was stronger, luck was with me and I was able to set up the connection, buying 2 hours worth of time. Our emails were down loading as Dennis appeared prepared to go for a walk. I decided to go along.
The streets are narrow, the side walks really narrow. Plus with all the construction of high rises on the water front, scaffolding covers the sidewalks. Not too far along, we spotted a MacDonald’s sign board and followed it. We were stunned to find it didn’t open until 8:30. To fill the time, Safeway Supermarket, offered us the opportunity to check out the local produce and buy and English newspaper.
Hunger called us back to MacDonald’s. We were reminded that we were in English Country when our coffee and tea came with cream. My pancakes were ready and good, but Dennis had to wait for us Sausage Mac Muffin to be made. Not fast food, but then we were the only customers in the place.
Before heading back to the Salty Dawg, we returned to Safeway and purchased fruit and flowers. Lowie and I love to have fresh flowers in the salon.
The day after completing a passage finds the crew out of sync with regular time. The desire to do something different is hampered by the body clock needing to be reprogrammed. Dennis started cleaning the boat, but stopped about half way. I sat at the computer trying to get my brain and fingers to complete my journal.
David sat at his computer, having “connectile dysfunction”. I tried to help, but technology was taking him in vicious circles. He interrupted this exercise with 10 minute on the hour cat naps. Bernie and Milt came by to answer some electrical questions. Salty Dawg has a multiple/complicated system and has many options. Together they resolved a couple of issues and we now have hot water without running the generator. Yeah !!
Lowie, the only one with energy tackled cleaning the inside of the boat. It accumulates “sea scum” from running with the doors open all day. We button up at night to keep excess moisture out but prefer not to have the air conditioning on.
Later she went for a walk and purchased some items for dinner.
Thursday, - July 12
Dennis took his routine early morning walk while I lazed in bed and read. I planned on getting my exercise while playing tennis at the local sports complex. And I did.
The Bocks were being picked up by Soniai, another Nordhavn owner, and driven into Spain to visit the marina where they live. They also purchased European cell phones, and a mound of fresh vegetables. We turned them into a luscious chef salad for dinner. They enjoyed their outing and Dennis and I enjoyed being by ourselves for the first time in 8 weeks.
Dennis cleaned another section of the boat, and I read and relaxed.
Friday - July 13
Dennis and I declared this a touring day for ourselves. Leaving about 8 we walked on the street outside the “wall” until we came to the famous “Landport Gate/Tunnel” , at one time the only entrance to the walled city. This walk opens to “Casement Square” and Main Street, lined with shops, businesses and restaurants.
The south end of Main Street leads to the Botanic Garden where we spent a couple of hours browsing and enjoying the peace and quiet of the plant world.
A couple of “hawkers” convinced us of the advantage of a minibus tour over riding the gondola to the top of “the Rock”. But first we wanted a snack and a bathroom.
Not too far, a corner café supplied both needs. Sharing a “tunnel cake” (fried bread dough) and a beverage we were refreshed enough to take a tour.
The tour consisted of a drive, traversing up “the Rock” to various points of interest and overlooks with great views including: The Gates of Hercules, St Michael’s Cave, The Great Siege Tunnels, The Castle, and hugs from the famous Monkeys. We were enlightened by what we saw, read and experienced. The history of Gibraltar is extensive. I recommend you google Gibraltar and read for yourself.
The day would be capped with our last formal Med Bound dinner at the little Mermaid Restaurant. Bluewater and Moana Kuewa are late night dinners, but in deference to Salty Dawg, especially Dennis and I, dinner was called for at 7:30, a compromise. A good time was had by all.
Saturday – July 14
As Salty Dawg was “the fishing” vessel, we decided to share one more meal with the group. David, Lowie and I decided on a casual soup and salad menu and since I have a wonderful fish soup recipe I volunteered to prepare it. I also baked: a loaf of multigrain bread, whole wheat rolls and cookies. While I was busy in the galley, Lowie cleaned and did all the other preparations involved in having 12 for dinner. She also made a wonderful salad. I was too busy to notice but I think the “boys” were doing blue jobs.
The evening was capped by viewing another cd of “more” photos of our Med Bound Adventure. The party was a smashing success.
Sunday, July 15
I announced a day off for myself as I was tired from the hours in the galley.
Dennis wrangled me into a computer project compiling the travel statistics for our passages. You know, all of the standards: miles per gallon, gallons per hour, miles per hour, etc. He tried to involve me in another project, but I restated my “day off” mantra.
David and Lowie departed late morning to take the Gibraltar tour.
We made another super salad and were delighted to have the left over fish soup!
Monday, July 16
There had been much discussion about where to go and when to leave Gibraltar.
Monday was bunkering (fueling) day. Dennis and I had hoped to put fueling off a day and then leave. However, since fueling appointments are made through an agent and it was scheduled for 12:00, the decision was made to leave from the fuel dock. Dennis and I walked to the market to purchase fruit and yogurt, while David and Lowie prepared Salty Dawg for cruising.
We pulled away from the Marina Bay Dock about 11:30 and made our way to the fuel dock a mile away. It was 12:30 before we started the process as Bluewater was ahead of us. Salty Dawg sucked up 6170 liters or 1627 gallons among 4 fuel tanks. Working through an agent allows us to fuel at a commercial fueling dock, with duty free, discounted fuel for a minimum quantity. The process takes about an hour and was accomplished without a drop spilled. This is highly important these days, as one signs a waiver of responsibility for spillage before beginning the process. It is a little scary because these are high speed pumps going into itty bitty pipes as compared to commercial vessels.
Mission accomplished, we gathered the dock lines and slipped away into Gibraltar Bay, past the numerous commercial ships at anchor. At the southern point of Gibraltar, Salty Dawg turned 170 degrees and cruised north along the east side of “The Rock”, an impressive view.
And thus our Mediterranean Cruise began.
July 15, 2007
Atlantic Ocean
Sumbitted by Lowie
Gibraltar is very small. It is naturally an island but was connected to the mainland by landfill. It is a little melting pot and a good intro to the Med.
Our crew has taken the required tours and they are interesting—but we are ready to untie the docklines!
Last night the Salty Dawg crew hosted a dinner party for the remaining crews and captains. In May, these people were strangers—not after crossing an ocean together. We had to make the dinner based upon the fish we caught. So Esther had a great recipe for fish stew and it was a smash. Big salad, fresh baked bread and voila—a lovely meal to eat while we watched MedBound pix.
I will not have access to the blog for awhile cause we will be cruising the Spanish coast. Our first “chore” is to locate a marina for our winter here.
I spent long hours scouring both land guides and sea guides for ideas. Then factor in lots of conversations with other boaters and I now have 4 puertos to explore. We have already seen one lovely place so that will make 5 possiblities. By October the Med season for boating is finished. The autumn winds are very tough.
After we settle on a winter home, we will head to the Baleric Islands: Mallorca, Ibiza, Menorca. Our goal is to try and find anchorages that are not overrun with boats and tourists. This is all very challenging and a bit intimidating. There is so much to learn each day. But that is why it is called an adventure!
So, if I am late in my e mail responses have no fear, we are fine. If there are not new blog entries, we will make them as soon as we have the tech opportunity. Much love.
PS—we have no Sat TV yet so I have no idea what is going on in the world!
Today while David and I munched Indian food they had CNN on the tube—first site of it in a long time.
July 13, 2007
Gibraltar
Sumbitted by Lowie
It is so darn great to be here! It is not Gibraltar that is absolutely terrific—but the high of crossing the ocean. We are so tired but so happy to be on this side of the “pond”.
We have been introduced to a lovely Nordhavn owner named Sonaia, and she spent the whole day with us today. She drove us across the border into Spain. Driving from Gib to Spain you literally drive across the one runway of the international airport! She showed us the marina that they live at while on the boat—we liked it very much.
The funniest part of the day was when she showed us her supermarket. It was a lovely supermarket and SHE HAD A CAR! When you cruise and live without a car you buy little cause you carry it…we went a bit nuts shopping for heavy items!! When you use your credit card in the grocery store they need to see your passport as proof—the stolen card problem is huge here.
The sun is still up here and 10:30PM so it is hard to settle your bones for the evening. We are having a MedBound Farewell dinner tomorrow night in a lovely café near the marina. Saturday night Esther and I prepare a fish stew, salad and homemade bread buffet. We caught so many fish and have taken so much teasing that a fish dinner must be our last hurrah for the group.
Our plans are developing for the Baleric Islands for the rest of the summer. David and I spent the whole crossing reading our guidebooks and cruise books for destinations. We plan to do a lot of anchoring out since we love it and the marinas are terribly crowded. Everything at the moment is so new to us that it feels like a huge challenge. (Try using Gib pounds one day and euros in Spain the next!) .
But having just crossed the Atlantic—I think we can handle the rest!! I am grateful that Esther fills in more details on her blog entries—all my friends know I am not a detail/ description person. Please send me emails so I feel in touch with you. While in Gib I have good internet connections. All my love.
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