"StarPlath" 40-60 - Lance and Stephanie Leuthesser
StarPlath Adventures - Chapter 7
May 20, 2008
Bus Ride to Nowhere While in Bara, Lance was cleaning the boat but we needed to check in with the porto capitan and we needed some fresh supplies. I decided to go by myself and took the water taxi over to Bara. I checked in with the capitan and then went into a few of the small markets. Their choices looked poor and I had heard there was a better store in Malaque which was about 6 miles away. By now we are seasoned bus travelers so I hailed a bus that said Malaque on the window. When the bus got into Malaque, I realized the town was no bigger than Bara and after going up and down every dirt street in the town, I didn't see a decent market so I decided I would just stay on the bus and go straight back to Bara but I got suspicious about its route when I realized I was the only person left on the bus. Suddenly the driver takes a left off the main road. We are now in a town of about 100 people and we pull onto a side street and the bus driver just parks the bus and starts to get off. By now I'm starting to get a little panicky so in my horrible Spanish, I tried to tell him I wanted to go to Bara. He said something that made me think there would be another bus in about 15 minutes. I get off the bus and the bus jefe (at least he seemed like the boss) spoke a little English and he had lawn chairs set up in his office (you might call it a porch stoop). Sure wish I had had my camera with me. He offered me a chair and a cigarette so by now we are best friends, although I did decline the smoke. He introduced me to all the drivers and told me there would be a bus for Bara shortly. Finally he pointed to a bus and told me to take that one. The driver was Alex who I had just met. I shook hands with el bus jefe and bid him goodbye. So finally I think I'm on the bus to Bara and when we got to the main road Alex did NOT go to Bara but back to Malaque. By the time we had gone up and down every dirt street in Malaque again, I was really starting to think I might never get back to Bara but Alex assured me we would go to Bara. Finally I got back to Bara after two hours!!! Libby always tells me we are not lost but on an adventure but I assure you I was feeling pretty lost!!!
The Boating Community
After Bara we anchored in Tenatecita (where I had previously broken the dinghy seat). We left the dinghy on board and just chilled on the boat. There were about 7 other boats anchored and one night the other boaters were taking their dinghies over to the only other power boat there a 52' converted fishing vessel.
In a little while a dinghy comes to our boat and said they were having a party and if we would ever listen to our VHF radio, we would have known we were invited. So they took us back to the party boat in their dinghy. Met 5 other couples and had a delightful evening. The boat, The Cat's Meow, belongs to Martin and Robin, really thoughtful and gracious people, and do they have a story to tell
their boat was sunk and it has been revived (it's scary to think about but it's really interesting reading, especially for all my animal friends as they had to save their two kitties). You can read about their adventure at http://www.thecatsmeowcruising.com/webpage01_000007.htm. Reading their story gives you faith in the boating community
the other boaters really rally around one another as approximately 30 boats came to help. They salvaged the boat and Martin even rebuilt the engine himself inside the engine room and their engine is almost twice as big as ours. An incredible feat!! Again, I always feel like a whiner when I see all the things other boaters go through. Money Woes Again!
We left Tenatacita and it was fairly smooth sailing to the La Cruz marina in the Puerto Vallarta area. Now Lance goes to pay the fee with (drum roll), the Capital One 'no hassles' card. It was rejected!!!! I called them again and this time I am speaking with someone with a very heavy accent and he assures me he can help me if I can answer just a few questions for security purposes. The first question was 'From the following list, choose which amount was my car loan for in 1998.' I'm yelling 'that was 10 years ago I can't remember' but then I remembered we haven't had a car loan in over 20 years so I said 'we didn't have a car loan then.' He seemed satisfied so we went to the next multiple choice question - what street had I lived on. Got that one right. Then another multiple choice question - who had I worked for. Between the sat phone breaking up and his heavy accent, I missed the question. DON'T EVER DO THAT!!! He was about to hang up on me when I started getting really miffed so he put his supervisor on the phone. She proceeded to tell me I had 'failed' the security questions. I said I couldn't understand him and to repeat the question. She wouldn't do that but she would ask another question. Her question still has me in shock and you will never ever again worry about 'big brother' (aka the government) knowing everything there is to know about you. It's Experian and the other credit agencies that know everything. Here's her question: 'Did you have a relative die in Florida during the last 10 years?' I was so stunned I couldn't even respond at first and then I realized Lance's mom died in Florida so I got the question right. I explained once again that we were traveling and our card was invalid. Well, since I changed my address so Libby could get a new pin number and since I got a new pin number, they locked up the account. The phrase 'catch 22' was now the phrase of the day. She assured me that since I had convinced her that I was who I said I was, she would release the account. I can't believe the 'hassles' I've had with this card. Let this be a warning when you travel out of the country. The good news, we finally got cash with the card.
6:00AM Wake Up Calls
We were really looking forward to just hanging out on the boat. BUT at about 7:00PM the first night fireworks started
only I wouldn't call them fireworks but more like M- 80's being launched about 200 feet in the air and then just a huge explosion. That went on for about an hour and poor Tavie who is deathly afraid of fireworks just shivered. Then the loud music started and went on until at least 2 in the morning. Ok, we finally got to sleep but unbelievably, the explosions started at 6:00AM. We couldn't believe it. So I went to the marina office to ask about this unfortunate turn of events. It turned out to be some annual rite that lasted for 9 days. Fortunately, 4 days had already passed before we got there. We met a Canadian sail boater who cracked us up talking about the 'mis-syles' that were going off every morning at 6. None of us could figure out the purpose, especially after they had music blaring until at least 2:00AM every night. We also couldn't ever figure out what they were celebrating everyone we asked gave a different story (labor day, religious, cinco de mayo, etc).
We did decide it was at least partly religious because they had a parade every night in town (this town probably has a total population of 500 people). The Tournament of Roses has nothing to fear. It consisted of about 20 dancers in Aztec costumes, followed by a 'float' (that's a kind interpretation of a pick-up truck) with someone portraying Jesus on the back and each night was a different scene. Then the float was followed by about 30 people holding 'flowers' (aka weeds) and then a band. The band sounded exactly like the one in the funeral scene in one of the Godfather movies. I later noticed the big bass drum had 'El Tormentor' written on it which was a very fitting title.
The $4 Haircut
By now we've been at sea for almost 3 months and we desperately needed haircuts. I insisted that we go to Puerto Vallarta as I was NOT going to let someone in this dink town cut my hair in their home. So we ate dinner with at least 3 beers each and on the way back to the boat we stopped at Mary's house for a haircut. At the end, the brush she used on me had probably never been washed!! So when I got back to the boat, I scrubbed my head - haven't noticed any lice yet!!!
Puerto Vallarta Again
We really enjoyed PV again. Here are a few more pictures from the town. I had to sneak a picture of the donkey that was just standing in the street because when I tried to take a picture close to it, the owner came out and demanded dinero which I declined to pay so I just went across the street and took the pic when he wasn't looking! We also got a kick out of the 'gringo balloon lady'
she just sat down in this restaurant where we were eating and starting making balloon animals for the little children. What a nice thing to do!
Our Nordy Friends Return
Jim and Linda (Outward Bound) who we had met in Bara came in for a couple of days and we enjoyed their company for two evenings. Then they left for La Paz and the Sea of Cortez. A few days later Ted and Mary (our Texas 'banker' friends on Sea Star) arrived and we spent several evenings with them. We'll see Jim and Linda when we go to Dana Point where they live and we'll see Ted and Mary when we go to Texas where they live.
Tavie
Here's Tavie getting a much needed bath...
We need to make a movie called 'The Birds'
On the way to Cabo we had a few hitchhikers... at one time there were at least 15 birds riding on the booms and on the foredeck railing. They are so entertaining and stayed there all night. They fight for position and if a different type of bird arrives the others go crazy pecking at it and trying to get it to leave. After we got into the marina, Lance was ready to murder them all. He spent almost two days cleaning up their droppings. So much for entertaining... he's made me promise to shoo them away the next time.
Home Again, Home Again, Jiggedy Jig
Now we're in Cabo waiting for the weather to smooth out for our 'Baja Bash' which is always a difficult journey back up the Baja coast. My next email will be once we get home and will conclude our adventure. I think it's going to be boring but then again we hear Rosarito is pretty exciting with all the drug wars going on!!! Smooth sailing to all and pray that we finally get smooth seas! StarPlath Crew Stephanie, Lance and Tavie
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