Dick and Gail Barnes on N57 Ice Dancer II

When Dick and Gail Barnes decided they would buy an ocean crossing boat and see the world, they weren’t kidding around. They took delivery of their first long-range boat, a Nordhavn 50 called Ice Dancer, in February 2003 and immediately began putting miles on her. First, down the west coast of the U.S. to the Sea of Cortez and spots along Baja, then back up the coast all the way to the Inside Passage, over to the Gulf of Alaska and back down the coast again. Call it their warm-up cruise, the sea miles needed to gear up for the non-stop 2,400 nm passage from San Diego to Hawaii, amongst the most ambitious of legs. From there it was on to the South Pacific and ports of call such as Bora Bora, Christmas Island and Palmyra. After 15 months of near non-stop cruising, the couple headed back to the U.S. They had a lot of thinking to do: about the good times they’d had on their trips and about the possibility of moving into a new boat.

The Barnes loved their Nordhavn, but thought a bit more room would suit them. Having become acclimated and very comfortable with the ways of their 50, they sought out the model’s closest kin – the Nordhavn 57. In the Fall of 2005, they purchased a brokerage N57, dubbed her Ice Dancer II, and once again began racking up the miles.

It would be hard to believe that almost five years have passed since the couple took delivery of Ice Dancer II, but not after you learn of all the places they’ve been with her: Alaska, Mexico, the Galapagos, South America, Hawaii and the South Pacific. The thing about Dick and Gail is that they go about it in a very understated manner – sometimes with visitors on board, often times solo. But always without fanfare – with no help in that regard from PAE who has proclaimed the Barnes’ accomplishments in advertisements and press releases. If it weren’t for the once-a-month (or once every couple of months) check-in to us, not many people would have known they rounded Cape Horn or visited the logistically-challenging New Zealand fiords.

Currently they find themselves Down Under, where they’ve been since September having crossed over from Vanuatu. Like many who come to the area, the Barnes enjoyed snorkeling, although not in the water around any of the ports surrounding the Great Barrier Reef. “No swimming or diving under your boat because of the toothy hazard,” remarks Dick, referring to the saltwater crocs which are protected and growing in population.

No worries, mate. Marlin Marina in Cairns has a manmade saltwater swimming pond to provide safe fun in the water.  And what with the continent’s vast open spaces and parks, the couple enjoyed taking the fold-up bikes out for long rides. After Cairns, they motored north to Lizard Island, a popular wintertime cruising destination for Australian boats.  Lizard Island has a good anchorage with protection from the prevailing southwest winds.  Each day, many boats run from this protected bay to openings in the outer reef for diving and fishing, returning in the evening to a restful anchorage.  At night, Dick and Gail participated in the other great past time shared by most Australian cruisers – or cruisers of Australia – known as the sundowner, the nightly event that brings cruisers together to watch the sunset with cocktail in hand.

From there it was to the Whitsunday Islands, Australia’s Gold Coast, Tasmania and to New Zealand, where they are currently berthed in Nelson. They’ve taken advantage of some great weather and, aside from a couple weeks sojourn back home to Alaska to take care of some business, have enjoyed their eight months in the land of battlers and bushrangers.

“We’re certainly having a great time,” says Dick. “Our appetite for adventure is undiminished.” We’ll say! Between their 50 and 57 Nordhavns, they’ve logged 65,000 nm. Throughout our trip from Cairns to Nelson, the boat served us very well – as she always does – in comfort and safety.”

For more on the Ice Dancer II's Australasia Cruise, click here for a Q&A with Dick Barnes.